Really stoked to be featured in the latest issue of the french magazine surfsessionmag! Go ahead and buy it, and see if you can find some of the minor factual errors…but what the heck! ;D And for those of you that doesn’t read french -google translate might come in handy!
It sounds so easy, “be present in the moment”. But how do you actually do that!? I envy people that are able to just sit down, with their own thoughts and enjoy the stillness, doing nothing. I’ve always been a restless soul and I enjoy action and when things are happening around me, loved working as a waitress in a full restaurant for example (my close friends probably laugh while reading this since I’m also the most tired person in northern Europe, 3 hour power naps is kind of my thing). I get kicks from challenging myself and I want to be the best that I can be in the things I really enjoy doing, like surfing and yoga. Add some competitive spirit and you have a perfect recipe for a stressed out body and a mind filled with shattered confidence…
Today I really had to challenge myself in this new, and for me unfamiliar way. I was forced to be still and quiet while my body just wanted to “get high”. To ride one really nice wave. To practice more on that backhand top turn that I’m struggeling with. But there was only tiny tiny waves and I had to choose from either go back home, already dressed in my wetsuit or surrender and try to appreciate the beauty of the sunny and clear afternoon. I would love to say that I really enjoyed it but that would have been a big fat lie. I was focusing on my breath, smelling the ocean and for a couple of minutes I actually think I did it! I was present in the moment. Didn’t plan for tomorrow, wasn’t thinking about the coming trip to Bali, wasn’t disappointed about the non existing surf. It sucked, but I tried.
Went for a little surf session today with my brother. You can really tell that the winter has loosen its grip of Sweden and that spring is soon to arrive. Love it! The waves were pure shit but the weather forecast had not predicted any magical swell either so we weren’t that disappointed. The water is still around 3 degrees celsius but the sun actually warms quite a bit. Really looking forward to go to Bali in a couple of weeks though, nice waves and summer for real!